Text Box: Please note, this restoration page will be updated as I progress. It will most likely not be anything fast ( I am retired and will work on it as interest propels me).

On the right is a spare engine that came with the Speedster. It is supposedly a completely rebuilt powerplant, we shall see, as it is going to replace the knocking engine. See repaint job below.

What the Speedster looked like after a few hours of elbow grease.  4 photos


Body off!


Everything except the body.


Engine removed & frame pressure washed


Engine paint scheme.

Text Box: 2/21/18


Frame & running gear painted.


Body prep (sanding); Gotta get rid of all those rock chips etc.


More sanding! I’ve decided to remove all the old paint.

I Found this “Speedster” in a barn in Canby Oregon, a true “barn find.”

The engine hadn't been run in over 7 years and didn’t want to start when I got it home (no spark, no fuel and no go.  I retimed the distributor, added a new coil along with solid state ignition and got spark. Then added a new carburetor and got fuel. Hit the starter and we have a running engine, but alas with a noticeable knock. Not to worry the sale included a newly rebuilt engine, so in it goes. First though that blue color has to go, so why not a complete frame off restoration?

Text Box: Most of you who have followed my various automobile adventures are familiar with my devotion to increasing the power of a certain Miata. You are probably wondering what this is all about? Hey! Times change,  people change and interests change. For some reason I developed an interest in the Ford Model ‘T” 
Now THAT is change!

3/4/2008 (3 photos click on thumbnail.)

Engine is in (on?) the frame and connected up to the differential. Next up is installing the new distributor and then converting it from a “points” system to solid state electronics.


3/4/2008 A little “Tech” here.

I have seen some discussion on the “T” Forums regarding use of the crankshaft pully “Pin” as a reference for setting the timing (getting to TDC (top dead center) on the #1 cylinder. As you can see, when the pully pin (in red circle) is horizontal the #1 cylinder is indeed at top dead center. Note that both valves are also closed.


“TEXAS T” Distributor installed.

http://www.nwvs.org/index.shtml  Northwest Vintage Speedsters site.

http://www.mtfca.com/   Model T Ford Club of America

http://www.fordbarn.com/  A website dedicated to Ford antique automobile enthusiasts.

http://www.modelt.org/  Model T ford club International

http://www.garagejournal.com/index.php?  Garage Junkies site.

http://www.oldcartrader.com/  Old car trader



 www.speedsterinc.net/  Emphasis on Model T and A restoration and Speedster building.

Australian Speedster (a great web site).

Great time-line on Henry Ford and the Model T. supplied by Kevin Powell

 Rods Main website                                                            Rods Garage Mahal

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Text Box: Do you have a webpage with Model T or Model A content? If so please send me a link and I will display it here.


No photos today, just sanding, sanding, sanding,…….


Using a computer program, the photo on the left was created with the two colors I’m considering. While I favor the yellow, the red has some appeal.


 Your vote might influence me?


Click on photo to enlarge it.


Time for some updates:

I took a break from all the sanding and decided to ck out some other issues.  Before I tore it all apart and when giving the wife a ride, she mentioned that the front wheel was wobbling.

 After checking on the MTFCA Forum (Thanks Hap & Seth) I took the advice given and started checking from steering components. It looks like the Spindle body bushings have seen better days, so new ones are on the way.


 Well I have been doing some sanding. Both skirts, radiator cover, headlight and the remaining panels on the body.  Now its down to detailing some of the body crevices etc, build a paint “booth” clean up  etc;  and paint (well primer first). Hopefully primer this weekend.